Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak Chronograph: A Step Closer to Perfection
After years of anticipation, the 38mm Royal Oak Chronograph has finally received a much-needed upgrade, bringing it fully into the modern era. This update is a game-changer for enthusiasts with smaller to medium-sized wrists, addressing a long-standing compromise with purist standards.
The Challenge: A Physics Problem
The key challenge was the physical limitation of fitting the Caliber 4401's larger dimensions into the 38mm case. As a result, the model continued using the same Frederic Piguet 1185, rebranded as the Caliber 2385. However, Audemars Piguet's innovative solution is the new Caliber 6401, a purpose-built movement designed explicitly for the 38mm case.
A Complete Reimagining
The Caliber 6401 is not just a downsized version of the Caliber 4401's architecture but a complete reimagining that took five years to complete. The movement's integrated architecture features a newly patented vertical clutch, simplified to reduce complexity and enhance the tactile feel of the pushers, paired with a column wheel and an instant-jumping date complication that shifts at midnight.
Benefits of the New Movement
The new in-house design offers two significant advantages. Firstly, it provides a beefier power reserve, jumping to 55 hours from 40. Secondly, it boosts frequency, matching the 28,800 VpH of the 41mm Calibre 4401 movement. Despite these improvements, the watch remains slim at 11.1mm.
Notable Sacrifices
To maintain the 38mm's slim form factor, the new 6401 movement sacrifices advanced flyback functionality, which was a feature of its bigger Calibre 4401 sibling. This decision may disappoint those who appreciate advanced watch complications.
Exterior Refinements
Along with the new movement, the watch features refined dials, including a repositioned date window more centrally between the 4 and 5 o'clock indices. The chronograph subdials have also been rearranged, with the minute and hour counters now at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, respectively. Additionally, the watch now includes a sapphire caseback, offering a clear view of the refined movement finishing.
Three New Models
Three new models are available with the Caliber 6401. The stainless steel version boasts the classic blue Grande Tapisserie dial, synonymous with the Royal Oak. Two pink gold references are also available: one with a grey dial and silver-toned subdials and another with a sand gold-toned dial, beige subdials, and a diamond-set bezel.
Pricing and Availability
The stainless steel model with the classic blue Grande Tapisserie dial is priced at $43,000, a $1,500 increase from the outgoing model's $41,500 price. The two pink gold versions are significantly more expensive, with the grey dial variant at $84,500 and the diamond-set bezel model at $91,600.
Conclusion: A Nearly Complete Package
The 38mm chronograph now stands as a nearly complete package, offering perfect dimensions for smaller to medium wrists, the much-requested manufacture caliber, and the timeless Royal Oak design that continues to define luxury sports watches nearly five decades after its debut.
