Get ready to be captivated, because Jacquemus just dropped a collection that’s as bold as it is nostalgic. But here’s where it gets controversial: is it a genius homage or a risky reinterpretation of the past? The brand’s Fall/Winter 2026 ‘LE PALMIER’ collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, isn’t just a showcase of fashion—it’s a journey through time, memory, and artistic rebellion. Presented at the iconic Picasso Museum, the collection draws heavily from the brand’s archives while weaving in deeply personal touches from designer Simon Porte Jacquemus’s childhood. Think palm-tree ponytails inspired by his daughter and the vibrant streets of his early years in Paris. And this is the part most people miss: it’s not just about the clothes; it’s about the stories they tell.
Jacquemus revisits its signature geometric shapes, polka prints, and stripes, but with a twist. The fishtail silhouette makes a dramatic comeback, appearing in coats, suits, and accessories, while sculptural designs reach new heights. The collection also introduces fresh takes on the Le Valerie bag, elasticated ballet shoes, and structured evening wear, blending spontaneity with precision. Here’s the bold part: the collection nods to retro French films, 1950s couture, and the satirical humor of the 1980s, creating a fusion of supermodel sensuality and playful wit. Tactility reigns supreme, with kinetic feather embroideries, trompe l’oeil organza, and rooster feather detailing stealing the spotlight.
One of the most striking references? The closing look pays direct homage to a 1973 Helmut Newton photograph of Paloma Picasso, daughter of the legendary artist. This isn’t just a fashion statement—it’s a cultural conversation starter. But here’s the question: does this blend of nostalgia and innovation feel authentic, or does it risk losing the brand’s identity in the process?
Rooted in refined craftsmanship and an undeniable sense of joy, ‘LE PALMIER’ is a self-referential masterpiece filled with artistic homages and sculpture-like designs. It’s a collection that invites you to reflect on the past while embracing the future. Take a look at the collection above, and let us know—does Jacquemus’s latest offering hit the mark, or is it a step too far into the archives? Share your thoughts in the comments, and don’t forget to check out our FW26 recap for more fashion week highlights!
